Digest

Our favorite products, gadgets, restaurants, bars, wine, beer, and food websites and blogs.

A Large Halo of Crisp Cheese

The Squeezeburger at Squeeze Inn Hamburgers is definitely on the list of excellent cheap things to eat in Napa, says Dan Wodarcyk. A Squeezeburger is one-third pound of beef, fried rather than grilled, on a sesame bun with romaine lettuce, red onion, tomato, mayonnaise, and mustard. Add to this about one-third pound of cheddar cheese, put a bun on it, and then cover the thing for a few minutes to melt the cheese. “What you end up with is a large halo of crisp cheese surrounding the burger,” says Dan Wodarcyk. A Squeezeburger will run you $5.50. Add jalapeños, if you like, for 50 cents. Squeeze Inn also serves fresh-cut, skin-on french fries.

Squeeze Inn Hamburgers [Napa Valley]
3383 Solano Avenue (near Redwood Road), Napa
707-257-6880
Location

Board Link: Squeeze In, Napa Burgers

I Can’t Believe It’s Not Pho Ga

Range chicken hor fun (rice noodle) soup at Huang’s Kitchen will definitely satisfy your craving for pho ga (clear Vietnamese chicken soup) if you don’t feel like waiting in line at Turtle Tower down the street. Huang’s Kitchen promotes itself as serving “Chinese cuisine,” and the proprietors are from China, not Vietnam, but the chicken hor fun soup is pretty much straight-ahead pho ga, with the added attraction of being made with fresh rice noodles, says Melanie Wong.

The soup features a generous serving of tasty free-range chicken, poached and then served off the bone with its firm skin. Chewy, velvety fresh rice noodles flow easily through the clean chicken broth without clumping together. The stock isn’t quite as rich as that at Turtle Tower, but it’s very good, with a taste of bones and just a bit of sweetness in the finish. It comes topped with fragrant chopped cilantro and green onion, with a pho-style serving of bean sprouts, jalapeño, basil, and lemon on the side.

Huang’s Kitchen [Tenderloin]
611 Larkin Street (between Ellis and Eddy streets), San Francisco
415-771-1388
Location

Board Link: Range chicken hor fun soup (aka Pho ga) @ Huang’s Kitchen, SF

Mariquita’s Mystery Box

Lacinato kale, French fingerling potatoes, heirloom butternut squash, Jerusalem artichokes, long red Tropea onions, erbette chard, mustard greens, and Chantenay carrots—Cynsa scored a “mystery box” from Mariquita Farm with generous quantities of all of these and more. Mariquita Farm has a regular community supported agriculture (CSA) program to which people can subscribe, but those interested in what the farm calls “guerilla vegetable deliveries” can preorder a mystery box full of good stuff and pick it up on a Thursday night at the farm’s roving delivery location. (Folks also can preorder specific veggies off the available list on the website, like a bag of pimiento de Padrón peppers for $6.)

The mystery box costs $25, and Aaron was shocked to find out how much stuff is in it—at least three times the value in produce, he says. The selection may be even more varied and interesting than the regular CSA box. And it’s a ton of produce—bunches of greens that stretch rubber bands to the breaking point, big bags of peppers, bunches of carrots larger than those at the farmers’ market. It’s a great deal from a well-regarded farm that supplies some of the top restaurants in the area.

Mariquita Farm
Different locations; check website

Board Link: I love Mariquita’s Mystery Box

Loló

Loló, a just-opened restaurant in the Mission, serves Latin American fusion cuisine with Turkish and Mediterranean influences. The proprietors also own trendy restaurants in Guadalajara, Mexico, says Mari. They use local ingredients and do fusion cuisine well, says dobalina. Panko-encrusted fried shrimp wrapped in thinly sliced jicama (like little tortillas) is exceptional. “Never had anything like it,” says dobalina. Scallops and calamari are cooked perfectly, paired with a complementary sauce that’s flavorful yet subtle. Flank steak is tender and cooked to perfection, with excellent flavor. It’s the most expensive thing on the menu, at $18. Other items are priced around $9 to $12.

Loló [Mission District]
3234 22nd Street (between Valencia and Mission streets), San Francisco
415-643-5656
Location

Board Link: Anyone tried Loló? SF

On Matsutake Mushrooms

These aromatic mushrooms retain their piney, musky, cinnamony scent better when grilled rather than sautéed. Slice the caps and stalks, roast or grill until they turn a light brown, then eat with oil and salt.

Or you can try bulavinaka’s method, steaming them in a rice cooker with soy sauce, sake, and a little grilled diced onion or deep-fried tofu skin.

They work well in a simple soup: a basic dashi with matsutakes, sliced daikon, and carrots.

HLing offers another preparation: Steam the mushrooms in a chawanmushi cup (an egg-custard dish, one with a lid) for five minutes. Drink the nectar that forms, then slice the mushroom and eat with ginger soy sauce or wasabi.

kobetobiko prepares them as tempura. They’re ethereal, crunchy outside and juicy and flavorful inside.

Board Link: Matsutake Tokusen–best way to prepare?

Keep the Bacon Fat

There are tons of uses for saved bacon fat. cayjohan uses it in a vinaigrette for beet salad, while dinner belle puts some in her cheese grits and adds a bit to a pot of white beans. chocchipcookie uses bacon fat in her Caesar salad dressing. fearlessemily adds a tablespoon to a pound of burger meat with some milk-soaked bread and grills. You won’t taste bacon in the burger, but it is just luscious.

With all this good advice, chef chicklet got creative and used it to sauté up garlic, onions, and zucchini—the “best tasting zucchini” ever.

Board Link: Bacon Fat–do you use it? How?

Candied Ginger Purée

How do you use candied ginger purée?

leanneabe says spread it as a layer underneath pears in a crostata or tart.

Jyg08 says, “Take a log of chevre. Coat with the ginger puree. Stand back so you don’t get trampled.”

Querencia uses the purée to rub on chicken and pork before cooking it, and places a big spoonful in the center of acorn squash before baking.

Budino makes a fast ginger tea by dissolving a big tablespoon of the purée in a cup of hot water; with a squeeze of lemon and a dash of cayenne, it helps with a sore throat.

Board Link: Any great recipes using Candied Ginger Puree?

Pancake Toppings

NAtiveNewYorker suggests a topping of macerated strawberries, adding in blueberries to the batter, or topping with bananas sautéed in butter and sugar. KingsKetz cuts up the pancakes and dips the pieces in a mixture of fresh fruit salad and yogurt. reannd goes the savory route and mixes green onions or chives into cornmeal pancakes and sometimes tops them with queso fresco. erns53 shares, “If it’s the kind of day where I don’t have to move too much,” she tops the ’cake with chèvre and a sunny-side-up egg. Now that’s breakfast!

Board Link: How do I dress up pancakes?

We Love Yellow Onions

Which are the best onions to use in onion soup? Chowhounds actually have thought about this question a lot, and the consensus is: plain old yellow cooking onions.

The key to great onion soup is not using expensive, specialty onions. The requirements are a long, low, slow caramelization of the onions and a good stock. chazzerking says specialty onions like Walla Wallas and Vidalias lose their sweetness differential after caramelizing. cmkdvs tried sweet onions and found them to be much too sweet after caramelizing.

Karl S caramelizes in a rectangular nonstick electric skillet for best temperature control and no scorching.

Large onions are preferable to small ones, just because they’re easier to slice.

Board Link: Best onions for onion soup?

Real Grenadine

Once upon a time, grenadine, a popular ingredient in cocktails from the Tequila Sunrise to the Shirley Temple, was a syrup made from pomegranate juice and sugar. Grenadine purchased today, however, is likely to consist of little other than high-fructose corn syrup “and various artificial flavours that could be most accurately described as ‘red’,” says Jacquilynne.

There are several options for those seeking to recapture the bygone days of truly pomegranate-flavored grenadine. The pomegranate martini mixer from a company called Stirrings has real pomegranate juice in it, but it’s expensive and has rather weak flavor, says Jacquilynne. It’s available at Whole Foods. Torani pomegranate syrup is what JK Grence the Cosmic Jester uses at home. There’s no actual pomegranate juice in it, but it uses natural flavorings and sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup, and the price is good.

A third option is to make your own. Mix a cup of pomegranate juice—now widely available in supermarkets—with a cup of sugar, heat until dissolved, and store in the fridge.

Board Link: Real Grenadine

Page 1 of 912345»...Last »