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Lobster Rolls and Ipswich Clams, in Napa

Much excitement for you lovers of the Northeasterly clam shack: Lobster Shack is now open. This is the Napa relative of the excellent Old Port Lobster Shack, which has been satisfying Peninsula Chowhounds for a while.

It’s a classic seafood joint: tables with rolls of brown paper towels, bottles of malt vinegar and hot sauce, and a pretty casual attitude. Fried Ipswich clams are priced about what they would be in your usual Northeast shack—$10.75 for a half order, $18 for a full order—but the portions are a little smaller. The clams are a little smaller too, so they end up coming out a bit overcooked, though they are true belly clams.

The winner, though, is the amazing, gorgeous, perfect lobster roll, says Dan Wodarcyk. It’s in the classic mold: cold lobster, mixed with a teeny bit of Hellmann’s, salt, pepper, and green onions, served on a toasted “New England Hot Dog Bun.” It is a stellar sandwich, with perfect flavors, perfect textures, and a pretty generous serving of claw meat.

The buns are the true New England type—big slabs of crustless white bread. The crustlessness allows for the right level of grilling. The folks who run the place actually brought over the molds for the buns from New England, and are having a local bakery make ’em right.

Good New England clam chowder, too.

Lobster Shack [Napa County]
806 Fourth Street, Napa
707-258-8200
Map

Board Links: Old Port Lobster Shack in Napa … fried Ipswich clams … in Napa!!!

Alert! Perfect Fresh Porcini!

It is fresh porcini season, and excellent porcini dishes are showing up all over town.

César on Piedmont is serving up some wonderful roasted fresh porcini with white truffle butter; it’s amazing says JasmineG. “Get ’em while they last,” urges Robert Lauriston. Also great there: pimentos de padron, sand dabs, and a beautiful apricot custard.

At Eccolo, ML8000 found an exciting dish of fresh porcini and veal chops al cartaccio (in a parchment bag). “The chop was good but the mushrooms were outstanding.”

César [East Bay]
4039 Piedmont Avenue, Oakland
510-985-1200
Map

Eccolo [East Bay]
1820 Fourth Street, Berkeley
510-644-0444
Map

Board Links: Fresh porcini at Cesar

The Wonders of Multilayered Roti

A truly great roti prata, explains commuter_101, is a multilayered beast, one that you have to pick at to eat. It is not flat and monolayered, like a naan. He says there’s great roti prata at Straits Café.

atobiko loves, loves, loves the fantastic roti prata at Banana Leaf. “If you’re ever there on the weekends, you can see the special roti chefs churning these out like there’s no tomorrow!”

Roti prata is quite good at Banana Island. They have a special open kitchen where the roti is made, and it is, indeed, a many-layered beast. They’ve also got roti prata desserts—like one stuffed with peanut butter and fruit, and folded into little sweet roti pockets.

iOrderTheLamb is a fan of the roti prata at Shiok!

Fussy Foodie recommends roti canai at Old Town Café.

Straits Café [Peninsula]
3295 El Camino Real, Palo Alto
650-494-7168
Map

Banana Leaf Restaurant [South Bay]
182 Ranch Drive, Milpitas
408-719-9811
Map

Banana Island [Peninsula]
311 Lake Merced Boulevard, Daly City
650-756-6868
Map

Shiok! [Peninsula]
1137 Chestnut Street, Menlo Park
650-838-9448
Map

Old Town Café [East Bay]
4288 Dublin Boulevard, Dublin
925-833-8300
Map

Board Links: best roti prata?

“Healthy” Brownies

There’s only so much you can do to make brownies more healthful without robbing them of their essential brownieness. Here are two opposite approaches: One uses cake mix and replaces the fat with alternate ingredients, the other uses all the normal decadent ingredients but sneaks in some whole-wheatiness.

ChocoHound made brownie muffins, which consist of devil’s food cake mix and canned pumpkin, and says they’re nice and chewy, and more subtly chocolaty than most brownies.

geminigirl has made low-fat brownies by puréeing a can of black beans with their juices and combining them with a boxed brownie mix; she says the brownies come out well, with no bean flavor.

Babette makes her “healthier” chocolate chip–dried cherry brownies from scratch, using the best-quality butter, chocolate, and cherries she can (she prefers Plugrá, Scharffen Berger, and Purcell Mountain Farms, respectively); whole-wheat pastry flour; and opting for organic ingredients.

Here’s her recipe:

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 cup unsalted butter
2 cups brown sugar
4 large eggs

1/2 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 teaspoons vanilla
6 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
3/4 cups dried cherries

1/4 cup powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in the sugar. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the flour, salt, and vanilla. Add chocolate chips and cherries. Pour into a buttered 9-inch square pan. Bake for 35 minutes. Do not overbake. Brownies should be very moist. Cool in the pan. Dust the cooled brownies with powdered sugar, and cut into squares.

Board Links: Brownie Muffins!

H20, the Secret Ingredient for Tender Burgers

Adding 1/4 to 1/2 a cup of water per pound of ground beef makes burgers cook up extra tender, and even a little juicier. Ninety percent lean sirloin, for example, has great beefy flavor but so little fat that it dries out during cooking; just add water for a delicious, juicy burger. Adding liquid will even keep well-done burgers tender and moist—now that’s magic!

Board Links: The Niki Rothman Method

Bratwurst Done Better

In the Midwest, it’s standard procedure to cook bratwurst in a bath of beer and onions, then grill the brats over charcoal and serve on a bun with mustard and sauerkraut. kolgrim has improved the whole deal by spicing up the ’kraut and cooking the brats in it, creating a terrific commingling of flavors. The brats will be amazing, and so will the ’kraut, he promises.

Halve and slice thinly 1 1/2 onions, and caramelize them in 4 tablespoons butter in a cast iron pan. When they are nicely browned, add 1/2 to 1 tablespoon each yellow and brown mustard seeds and caraway seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, add a bay leaf or two, 5 to 10 whole allspice, and black pepper to taste. Drain a bag of refrigerated sauerkraut and add it to the onions and spices, along with a bottle of dark beer. Make a bath of two bottles of dark beer, half an onion thinly sliced, and 4 tablespoons butter. Bring the bath to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the bratwurst until it’s cooked through. Grill the brats 3 to 5 minutes per side over hot coals; at the same time, put the sauerkraut mixture on the cooler side of the grill and add the beer bath to it. When the brats are done grilling, put them in the pan with the ’kraut and beer for 30 minutes to an hour. It will be at its best when most of the liquid is cooked away.

Board Links: Bratwurst?

The Elusive Digestive Biscuit

Several Chowhounds love the sweet, whole wheat digestive biscuit that comes in the variety pack of Carr’s crackers. The crumbly, crispy biscuits are always the first to go out of the variety pack. Luckily, you can buy a whole box of them—look for Carr’s Whole Wheat Crackers in the “fancy” or “gourmet” section of the supermarket, suggests AreBe. Also taste McVitie’s Digestives, which many Chowhounds point to as the original sweet, whole wheat digestive biscuit. They also come with one side dipped in chocolate. Check the cookie aisle or a retailer specializing in British things. Enjoy.

Board Links: Question about a Particular Carr’s Biscuit

Sparkling Red Wine

Tehama was looking for a wine to serve with a brownie sundae, and found the perfect thing—a yummy sparkling red wine. It’s Sant’Evasio Brachetto d’Acqui 2006 ($16.99). It’s more effervescent than sparkling, and completely delicious. “I may be behind the times, but I did not know that there were sparkling red wines on the market,” says Tehama. “It’s incredibly delightful!”

Board Links: Surprising find… sparkling red wine

Gin and It

Characters in British detective novels like to order a mysterious cocktail called a Gin and It, says Marsha. So what’s the “it”? Simply Italian vermouth, otherwise known as sweet vermouth, says pclarke. A 1948 recipe calls for three parts gin to one part sweet vermouth, but Alcachofa would put the proportions at 50-50, and JMF traces the drink back to its gentle 19th-century origins, where it’s four parts sweet vermouth to one part gin.

Any way you mix it, be sure to add a dash of orange bitters.

Board Links: What is ‘it’ in ‘gin and it’?

Crazy for Japanese Curry

Japanese curry is only vaguely related to the Indian original, but it’s got an appeal all its own. It’s easy enough to make from a package, so if you’re going to get it in a restaurant, they at least should be making it from scratch—like Sawtelle Kitchen and Bistro Laramie, says E Eto.

Café Hiro, a Japanese-Italian-French restaurant complete with red-and-white checkered tablecloths, manages to turn out some pretty good curry as well, says poptisserie.

There’s good curry in San Gabriel at Ducks, although lapchern finds it overpriced.

But the most competition for Japanese curry is on Sawtelle, where in addition to Sawtelle Kitchen, Blue Marlin, Hurry Curry, and Curry House duke it out for top honors and everyone seems to have his favorite. For curry on the go, check out Curry House’s new takeout shop on the first level of its Little Tokyo location and grab a curry pan (roll) or something.

Sawtelle Kitchen [Sawtelle Strip]
2024 Sawtelle Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-445-9288
Map

Bistro Laramie [South Bay]
18202 S. Western Avenue, Gardena
310-532-6555
Map

Café Hiro [Orange County]
10509 Valley View Street, Cypress
714-527-6090
Map

Ducks [San Gabriel Valley]
1831 E. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel
626-287-8743
Map

Blue Marlin [Sawtelle Strip]
2121 Sawtelle Boulevard, Los Angeles

310-445-2522
Map

Hurry Curry [Sawtelle Strip]
2131 Sawtelle Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-473-1640
Map

Curry House [Sawtelle Strip]
2130 Sawtelle Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-479-8477
Map

Curry House [Little Tokyo]
123 S. Onizuka Street, Los Angeles
213-620-0855
Map

Board Link: Best Japanese Curry

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