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Sushi Quest ’07

“One day in mid-February, I awoke hungry. Very hungry,” explains Sushi Monster. And so he begins an odyssey, “a personal quest for a sushi lunch experience of transcendental, near-orgasmic quality.”

So he went to every sushi restaurant he could find from Burlingame to Mountain View—the entire San Francisco Peninsula. Why? “I can’t explain the hunger or why it seized me so powerfully. It is probably the same driving force that impelled me to eat barbecue for 22 consecutive days some years ago. The same force that led me to amass the largest collection of bottled hot sauces on the West Coast.”

Eventually he went to 25 sushi restaurants in a few short months. And he has ranked them all. Of the 25, 6 of them he puts in the top tier: Sakae, SushiYa, Higuma, Yuzu, Sushi Sam’s Edomata, and Naomi. Within the top tier, the rankings are almost arbitrary, says he—any single one of them is worthy of a special trip.

Interestingly, he found almost no correlation between price and quality. The last-placer on his list (the dreadful Liquid Sushi) cost him $39, higher than second-placer SushiYa ($35). The one insane outlier is Sakae—both the best sushi experience and the highest priced, at $113 (with 20 percent tip).

His top choice, in the end, is Sakae. It is almost without peer; only Sam’s is comparable. But for the orthodox, fully traditional sushi experience, there is nothing else. “Sakae’s top chef Jun Nozawa is the mack daddy.” There is a staggering selection of special fish on the whiteboard, too, most of which are FedEx’d from the two main fish markets in Tokyo.

Of the other top-tier places, SushiYa and Yuzu are both small, seven-seater, mom-and-pop-type places that offer top-quality nigiri at a very reasonable price. Higuma is not as small but has exceptional quality for the lowest per-piece price of the top-tier restaurants—it’s probably the best value on the list, says Sushi Monster. Naomi is also a midsize shop, with an indefinably homey vibe. It puts people at ease, which may explains the legions of fans.

And then there’s Sushi Sam’s Edomata, a wild ride through undeniably exceptional sushi, put forward in bold, innovative flavor combinations. But it loses on the value scale, at an average of $7 per nigiri order, as opposed to Higuma’s $4 per order.

Be sure to check out his staggeringly long post, with detailed tasting notes on all 25 restaurants.

Sakae [Peninsula]
240 Park Road, Burlingame
650-348-4064
Map

SushiYa [Peninsula]
380 University Avenue, Palo Alto
650-322-0330
Map

Higuma [Peninsula]
540 El Camino Real, Redwood City
650-369-3240
Map

Yuzu [Peninsula]
54 37th Avenue, San Mateo
650-358-0298
Map

Sushi Sam’s Edomata [Peninsula]
218 E. Third Avenue, San Mateo
650-344-0888
Map

Naomi [Peninsula]
1328 El Camino Real, Menlo Park
650-321-6902
Map

Board Links: Sushi Monster devours Peninsula: The Big List

Stormy’s Primal Energy

The thing to get at Stormy’s Spirits & Supper is prime rib. This is a gorgeous slab of beef, about an inch thick, with rippled edges of glistening fat, says Ruby Louise. It’s tender, it’s juicy, without any gristle or tough bits, and it smells, gloriously, of purest beef.

The best side here: onion rings, for their flaky, almost sheer coating of batter.

It’s suprisingly cheap, as steakhouses go. You can get out of there for under $40 a person, before alcohol. Corkage is $14 a bottle.

Stormy’s Spirits & Supper [Sonoma County]
6650 Bloomfield Road, Petaluma
707-795-0127
Map

Board Links: Stormy’s Spirits and Supper

Snuggly Yucca Balls

There’s fantastic food, friendly service, and a wonderfully snuggly atmosphere at Mochica, says bamabuilt. From a simple chicken casserole to a dense shrimp and cheese bisque, every dish is great. jeffypop’s favorite is the delicious pork-stuffed fried yucca balls.

There’s also great ceviche, anticuchos, and tequenos. In fact, anything with chicken or fish is terrific.

Mochica [SOMA]
937 Harrison Street, San Francisco
415-278-0480
Map

Board Links: Mochica’s

Lentil Soup with Ham Bones

Ham bones make a great base for lentil soup. Gin and It starts by simmering the ham bone with canned tomatoes, water, and herbs, for several hours, then skimming and removing the bone; this makes a nice, rich stock for cooking the lentils and vegetables without turning them to mush.

Adding greens to a lentil soup gives color and texture. Chard, kale, and spinach are all great complements to the flavors of the lentils and porky broth. For longer-cooking greens, slice the leaves crosswise in ribbons and stir them into the soup toward the end of cooking, or add them when you begin reheating cold soup. Stir spinach in right before you’re ready to serve it, as it will wilt in hot soup in just a couple of minutes.

Val recommends this recipe for Hearty Lentil and Ham Soup, saying the cinammon stick it includes lends unusual and great flavor; she recommends cutting the stated amount of water by about half, though.

Board Links: ideas for a ham bone

Stock Options

If you want to make gingery, garlicky chicken stock for Asian cooking, but also need to have a neutral stock on hand, there’s no need to make two separate batches. Cook up a pot of stock with standard aromatics and light seasoning. Once it’s done, separate the amount you want for Asian recipes, and add ginger and garlic; let it simmer for about 15 minutes. The aromatics will release their flavor, and the stock will taste fresh. soupkitten notes that if your ginger is well scrubbed, you can use only the peelings in your stock (they give fine flavor), and save the ginger itself for cooking with.

Board Links: Ginger in chicken stock?

BLTs with a Twist

There’s nothing that satisfies quite like a BLT, and while some prefer the path of purity—adding only bread and mayonnaise to the eponymous trio of ingredients—others play with the formula to great effect. Most like their bacon nice and crispy, and everyone agrees that fresh, high-quality produce is essential. A tomato-centric sandwich is best in high tomato season, but if you just can’t wait until July, try halved grape tomatoes.

Many like to use herb-flavored mayo or aioli, and avocado is a favorite add-on. Some hounds make a chopped salad of the bacon, lettuce, and tomato, dress it with mayo, and stuff it in a bun or pita.

Dispensing with lettuce altogether, ETRIXIE uses thinly sliced cucumbers and fresh basil leaves for a nice, cool crunch.

macca also leaves out the lettuce and makes a hot open-face sandwich by layering bacon and tomatoes on toasted bread, topping with a favorite cheese, and broiling it until the cheese is bubbly.

thatgirl153 sprinkles brown sugar and ground chile on the bacon as it cooks, caramelizing it and giving the sandwich a spicy kick.

For some extra B in your BLT, lightly toast your bread and fry it in the bacon grease, then sprinkle with salt before building your sandwich on it, suggests Cinnamon.

Board Links: Your favorite BLT recipes

How Can It Smell So Bad and Taste So Good?

How is it that some things that smell like the icy hand of death can have intoxicating flavors? QueenB loathes the smell of fish sauce but adores the taste. “It’s salty and pungent, yet mellow at the same time,” says QueenB. “Not only that, but somehow it manages to complement and enhance the flavors of everything else in the dish.”

Many Chowhounds nominate the noble durian as the exemplar of this category. The fruit’s odor is so, uh, pungent, that reportedly care must be taken when harvesting it in the wild as tigers can mistake the smell for that of rotting flesh. The truffle-ice-cream flavor more than makes up for it, though, at least for those hounds who have acquired the taste.

Some hounds love the taste of kimchee but loathe the smell of a batch that’s been freshly opened. moh thinks that Époisses cheese from Burgundy is a prime example of lethal odor and magical taste: “Smells like really stinky feet, looks like pale toe jam, but truly one of the most heavenly, mellow, nutty cheeses available. The runnier, the better ….”

Finally, a few hounds maintain that the decayed, rotting corpse smell of natto—Japanese fermented soybeans—is made up for by the complex flavor. They are wrong.

Board Links: How can something that smells so bad taste so good?

Vino with Pineapple?

Fresh, ripe pineapple has both a high citric acid content and a high sugar content, making it a serious wine-pairing nightmare. If you’re determined to serve wine with your pineapple, though, whiner suggests a German Auslese Riesling. Chicago Mike agrees with the Riesling idea—a late-harvest Riesling or Sauternes could work. RicRios thinks Sauternes would be too sweet; he’d go for a Moscato d’Asti. And themis is not ashamed to recommend Maui Blanc, a pineapple wine made by Tedeschi Vineyards. “There are those who will turn up their nose at such a thing, but those kinds of people are never fun to entertain for; don’t invite them,” says themis. “I quite like it, has a wonderful acidity. What my people tend to call a ‘hot-tub wine.’”

Board Links: Wine with pineapple?

On Yellow Celery

butterchicken2nan remembers when, while growing up in Scotland, celery used to be a creamy yellow color, rather than the opaque green commonly seen in supermarkets in the United States. Didn’t celery used to be more the color of, well, Campbell’s Cream of Celery Soup?

Other former subjects of the British Empire also agree that celery is, or used to be, yellow. And pepper_mil, writing from China, notes that the celery available there is yellow and narrow with leafy stalks. It’s delicious. HollyDolly and others confirm that it’s sunlight that turns celery green. Veggies like celery and asparagus can be grown in a sort of tube, or packed in extra soil, to keep the sunlight off, and hence keep the green pigment from showing up. The visual effect is lovely, and the finished product seems to be less stringy.

Board Links: When did celery stop being
celery-coloured?

What to Do with Honeycomb

What do you do with the comb that comes with special honey? Eat it,
says Vexorg. Snack on the honey,
and chew on the pleasant-textured beeswax.
Deenso likes to break it up and
spread it onto buttered toast for a little extra crunch and texture.

Board Links: What do I do with a honeycomb?

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