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Organics: Good for the Ego

Over at Grist, Tom Philpott, who writes the mag’s essential Victual Reality column, has a lengthy, and angry, essay about the status of the organics movement. As Philpott sees it, the biggest recent achievements of organic agriculture in the United States have been psychological, not environmental. In fact, he argues, organics have only made it easier for people to ignore the deep problems of our dominant industrial systems. “[O]rganics aren’t inspiring people to think very much at all,” he writes, adding later, “Even as organics gain popularity and make people feel good about what they consume, industrial agriculture is consolidating its grip over the U.S. heartland.”

To move past “this acceptance of mass ignorance,” Philpott proposes that we start talking about something as basic as soil—that we establish “a national composting policy, one that compels municipalities to transform food waste into high-quality, crop-grade compost.” He makes a convincing case for it: Good compost is so rare, he writes, that many organic farmers rely on “manure from confined-animal feedlot operations to fertilize their land. By doing so, we’re depositing all manner of pharmaceuticals and toxins into our best farmland—the very stuff people try to avoid when they buy organic. An alternative farming system that relies on CAFO waste for fertility is a kind of parasite on a sick animal.”

Some small farmers have already switched to organic fertilizers for that very reason.

Cypress Grove’s Truffle Tremor Cheese

At a recent celebration hosted by my family, a couple of friends were charged with bringing a cheese plate. They showed up with some good stuff like a wine-soaked cheddar and a Blue Castello, but the standout was Cypress Grove’s Truffle Tremor, a ripened goat’s milk cheese flecked with truffle pieces. Our friends had driven about 40 minutes to the party, and in that time the cheese had warmed up to a perfect serving temperature, becoming soft and oozy, and we could smell truffle and goatiness through the plastic wrap. We devoured it right off.

Cypress Grove’s Truffle Tremor, $15.99 for a 1/2 pound

Comfort and Joy

The New York Times City Room blog is tossing around the idea that comfort-food preferences may be influenced by gender:

Research out of Cornell University suggests that females tend to prefer snack-related comfort foods (candy and chocolate) while men prefer heartier comfort foods (pasta or casseroles). The researchers speculate that the gender differences may relate to upbringing. Men may have been conditioned to prefer hot or labor-intensive meals (conjuring up memories of their mothers taking care of them) while women seek convenient comfort foods (a form of self-indulgence).

Renzata of Serious Eats isn’t really buying the study, since she’s a woman who prefers heartier fare—but she also admits that macaroni and soup are less comforting when she has to make them for herself.

This raises another question: Is food that is prepared for you by another person (be it a chef, a friend, or a family member) more comforting than food you’ve cooked yourself? And does the answer to this question vary along gender lines?

To the Bees’ Rescue

According to a survey, a full 50 percent of the public isn’t aware there is a problem with declines in the bee population. So I guess they wouldn’t know that a full third of our food is pollinated by bees (enough for the Häagen-Dazs company to start worrying about where it’s going to get raspberries and almonds for its ice creams).

For the half of us who are following along it’s hard not to feel somewhat helpless—is there anything we can do to help?

Even urbanites can plant bee-friendly flowers in gardens and pots. Urban Bee Gardens, a site created by UC Berkeley, has all sorts of advice on creating bee habitats. Already got a garden? You can help by not mulching (covering dirt with compostable material to prevent weed growth). Many bees nest in the ground, and the mulching interferes with access. Also, bee boosters are all about not pulling weeds—at least those like dandelion and white clover that provide pollen and nectar to hungry bees after they bloom. (I feel better about my unkempt yard already.) CHOW spoke with a Northern California beekeeper, who shared his wisdom about honey and honeybees.

If you don’t have access to a patch of dirt or a pot of soil, you could always just buy yourself a pint of Häagen-Dazs Vanilla Honey Bee ice cream to fund research on the problem. After you read the latest on the bee situation, you just might need it.

Pasta Salad: Bane of the Barbecue?

Watch out, pasta salad fans, because Sara Dickerman of Slate has some fightin’ words for your favorite summer side dish:

At its plainest—elbow noodles, mayonnaise, a careless scattering of celery and onions—it is the embodiment of the midcentury American fear of flavor. Perhaps even worse is the ‘new school’ pasta salad, which emerged in the ’80s. It looks good: It’s made with multicolored tortellini or fusilli in a thin, sweet vinaigrette and then gussied up with colorful canned olives and raw peppers or broccoli—garnishes that are the food equivalent of moussed bangs and shiny pouf skirts that can’t make up for a fundamental lack of charisma.

Yowch, I hope my mom doesn’t read this article! Actually, my mama’s pasta salad has evolved over the years, and its most recent incarnation—made with orzo, Greek olives, fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts, grape tomatoes, and thinly sliced basil leaves—was so delicious that people were scooping seconds into coffee cups and eating it with spoons. That said, we endured many, many summers of cold, chewy, tricolored tortellini before Mom had her pasta salad epiphany.

Fortunately, Dickerman’s 12-step pasta salad program promises smashing salads without nearly as much trial and error. She recommends using fresh herbs, tangy cheeses, cooked vegetables, and a few can’t-miss ingredient combinations:

Think smoked salmon, finely diced red onions, and chives; or grilled broccoli raab, slivered black olives, and hardboiled egg; or grilled mushrooms, ricotta salata, and chopped parsley. Roasted red peppers, basil, grilled lamb, and feta work well together, too.

Or maybe spinach, olives, and mozzarella?

Makes No Cents

The rapper 50 Cent did not take kindly to Taco Bell’s generous offer to pay $10,000 to the “Straight to the Bank” artist’s favorite charity—if he would change his name for a day to 79 Cent, 89 Cent, or 99 Cent in homage to the faux-Mexican chain’s value menu. In addition, 50 Cent would have to be filmed stopping by a Taco Bell of his choice and rapping his order through the drive-in window. Superclassy offer, Taco Bell! No wonder Fiddy called it “sleazy.”

Better Chocolate Through Supercomputing

The candy company Mars announced this week that it was joining with IBM and the Department of Agriculture to sequence and analyze the cocoa genome. Working with massive supercomputers, a team of researchers will genetically breed cocoa trees that can withstand the warmer weather and lethal fungi that have shrunk the cocoa harvest in recent years, driving the price of cocoa up 50 percent in the last year. Presumably, the researchers will also get to add the raw genome to their chocolate chip cookie batter.

Fortunately, all this genetic knowledge—this depository of deliciousness—will be used for good, not evil: Mars says that the research will be free and publicly accessible through the Public Intellectual Property Resource for Agriculture. The Washington Post says that should prevent anyone from patenting any part of the genome. “Can open source chocolate be far behind?” asks Wired, which adds, “Can there be a more noble cause for science than ensuring the future of chocolate on Earth?”

Punchy, Straightforward, and Totally Obama

In Kenya, Barack Obama’s father’s homeland, they’ve been drinking Obama beer for months, and now one American brewery is offering its own Obama-inspired suds. Brooklyn’s Sixpoint Craft Ales is now brewing small batches of Hop Obama ale, to be available in bars and restaurants in New York and Massachusetts. The BeerAdvocates who’ve tasted and graded it are giving it straight A’s. Reviewer Damian writes:

The taste was punchy and flavorful yet much more straightforward than the nose. Slight malt creaminess up front before the hops took over. Super citrusy, juicy and fruity. Spicy and somewhat earthy. Beneath the hops however lay a moderate, toasty maltiness which held the beer together nicely. The lingering finish was hoppy and resiny.

Sixpoint brewmaster Shane Welch told BeerAdvocate, “Although we do not intend this beer to be a direct Sixpoint endorsement of Obama, we believe the delicious and refreshing quality it represents reminds us of the Senator’s successful grassroots campaign that positively blossoms each and every day.”

As far as I can tell, American breweries have yet to craft a tribute to John McCain, but the Seattle Times reports that Cindy McCain’s family ties to one of the nation’s biggest beer wholesalers, Hensley, are causing some campaign conflicts. Apparently, Hensley “has opposed groups such as Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) in fighting proposed federal rules that would require alcohol-content information on every package of beer, wine and liquor.” John McCain has “no interest or role in Hensley,” but his wife is chairwoman of the company and “controls about 68 percent of the privately held company stock with her children and the senator’s son from his first marriage.”

Taking a Risk on Rosé

You know the feeling: You’re in an unfamiliar wine shop, say you want a good rosé for a picnic, and the salesman shows you to a nearby shelf, which has a grand total of six offerings. You don’t recognize a single bottle, so you ask for a suggestion, and the guy just points to the most expensive. Now you’re at sea, because he appears to know very little about any of the bottles. What to do? How to pick? This happened to me just recently, except that I had one additional piece of information: The shop, which is called the Oxbow Wine Merchant and is situated near downtown Napa, is owned by Peter Granoff, a master of wine and master sommelier with an astonishing depth of knowledge. And it’s a very classy store, with a fabulous cheese counter, a tasting bar, and an appetizer kitchen.

So even though Granoff’s salesman wasn’t much help, Granoff’s own spectral presence encouraged me to take a risk—and not on the $32 bottle, either, in part because that was too obvious, and in part because it wasn’t right for my occasion. I was just going to a casual picnic, and I didn’t want the wine to feel like a big deal.

I grabbed the absolute cheapest rosé on the shelf, priced at $13. My theory was that Granoff simply would not offer so few rosés without making sure that every single bottle was a good find.

Goodness, what a lovely wine! And what a lovely glow it gave to an evening picnic with my sister, her family, and my parents—who, incidentally, had brought a rosé from yet another retailer (and importer) one certainly ought to trust. That would be Kermit Lynch, and his terrific summer picnic wine is described below.

Peter Granoff’s Bottle: 2007 Floresta Empordà

Grapes: 50 percent Garnacha, 42 percent Merlot, 8 percent Tempranillo
Producer: Pere Guardiola, Catalunya
Region: Spain
Aging: N/A
Alcohol: 13.5 percent
Price: $13
My Tasting Notes: Darker in color than many French rosés, this wine jumps into your nose with berries (in a good way, I mean), and has a racy mineral finish. It was sensational with all the random charcuterie I brought to the meal, the duck rillettes and pâté and so on.

Kermit Lynch’s Offering: 2007 Mas Champart Saint-Chinian Rosé—Languedoc
Grapes: 60 percent Syrah, 20 percent Mourvèdre, 20 percent Cinsault, all from steep, terraced hillside vineyards in the western Languedoc
Aging: Cold-fermented in stainless steel, then aged on the lees for 90 days
Alcohol: 13 percent
Price: $14.95
My Tasting Notes: Much paler than the swarthy Spaniard above, this is all about crisp fruit and warm evening shadows. Not much of it out there, unfortunately: Fewer than 300 cases were produced.

Garrett Gourmet Popcorn

I hear that people stand in line for hours just to snatch up Garrett’s popcorn from one of its stores in Chicago. Why bother when you can get it delivered right to your home? Surprisingly, the caramel-and-cheese combo is pretty good—I like how the salty and the sweet come together. And it’s made with real butter and cheddar cheese, without anything artificial in it.

Garrett Gourmet Popcorn, $22–$28 for a one-gallon tin

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