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Grown in Detroit

Where I live, San Francisco, if you signed up on the waiting list for a community garden plot this afternoon, you might be sitting down to plate of homegrown potatoes in, oh, 2015 or so. But as Detroit Free Press writer Marty Hair explains in “Vegetables and Concrete,” not only are lucky Motor City residents welcome to plant gardens for free in any of 20,000 (!!) plots owned by the city; they can even sell what they grow.

The yours-for-the-asking plots are often located in oddball spots: abandoned buildings, old factories, vacant lots—all plentiful after the auto industry came and (mostly) went. And even though the city of Detroit only leases the gardens to citizens for one growing season, hundreds of green-thumbed dabblers have started selling their output to nearby businesses and restaurants and at local farmers’ markets under a special Grown in Detroit label. Their efforts are encouraged by a group called the Garden Resource Program, an innovative grass-roots coalition that supports local organic farmers with seeds, information, plants, and funds to set up farmers’ market stalls.

It seems a peculiar foray for a city associated so strongly with industrial production. But as Johns Hopkins poli-sci professor Dr. Lester K. Spence points out on his personal blog:

Detroit is a city that has approximately 900,000 residents. At its height, 2 million called Detroit home. Most see the blocks upon blocks of empty space and see ghettoes. I see something else entirely.

In a March editorial in the Detroit News titled “Urban Farming in Detroit,” David Josar points out that:

In a city of roughly 880,000 people, there are just two large-scale grocery stores. Because public transportation is not always convenient, and an estimated 37 percent of residents live below the federal poverty threshold, most people shop at small independent stores that charge more and are more likely to have a meager produce selection.

Detroit garden boosters are doing all they can to encourage the brisk rise in growers. There’s even an urban garden tour tomorrow. Is your city ready to see vacant lots bursting with green beans and cucumbers? Are the tattered remnants of boom-and-bust towns ripe for a new type of revolution: agriculture superseding industry?

Long Live Reasonable Bordeaux!

First, a pair of wine discoveries: These compressed-gas canisters, such as Winelife and the Oenophilia Private Preserve Wine Preserver, are inadequately appreciated miracles. Carrying various proprietary blends of heavy gas, all with argon as the prime actor, they extend the life of opened bottles by laying a blanket of heavy, inert gas over the wine. You just stick the WD-40-like nozzle in the bottle, give it a few squirts, and shove the cork back in. The idea is that the heavy gas limits the wine’s contact with oxygen, therefore dramatically slowing oxidation, meaning you can actually save that expensive bottle for a few days—or even a week—after drinking the first glass. Putting the bottle in the refrigerator also helps; and, yes, this applies to red wine as well. The depressed temperature is another contributing factor in slowing down the wine’s oxidation.

These systems work better, in my opinion, than vacuum systems. First of all, we all know that nature abhors a vacuum: By the laws of physics, at least as I understand them, the vacuum created in your wine bottle can only pull gas, and therefore aromatics/bouquet, out of the wine. Secondly, anyone who has ever used these things has had the experience of going to uncork a wine bottle a few days after creating the initial vacuum seal and noticing that, well, there’s no pop. To wit, the vacuum is no more. And the wine, therefore, is also no more.

Wine discovery number two, which is related to wine discovery number one: There really, truly are good Bordeaux experiences available at reasonable prices and without huge amounts of aging. More than a week ago I opened a 2002 Château de Sales Pomerol, which I bought for well under $30. I opened it at the time for a comparative tasting; I reopened it simply because I wanted a drink. And the quality of both the wine preserver and the bottle itself was a surprise. As for the bottle, it has to do with the fact that the Bordeaux experience—the same big, assertive structure we get in good California Cabernets, but with much of the fruit space filled instead by mineral, earth, and tannin—can actually be had at a once-in-a-while splurge price level, not just at the once-in-a-lifetime splurge levels you see for the big-name châteaux in the big-news vintages.

Of course, there was a food discovery informing all of this, as always. Once again, I spent the entire day slaving away in my basement, building my wife a new home office—she’s left town for the occasion—and when it came time to feed myself, I realized I had the makings of an untried-by-me recipe in Lulu’s Provençal Table, my current cookbook flame. Meat and Potato Gratin is the rather unappetizing name; Hachis a la Purée de Pomme de Terre is the French title, translating roughly as hash with mashed potatoes. But in the making—sauté some leftover pot-au-feu beef with an onion and a little savory and drop it into a small baking dish, then mash a boiled potato with milk, butter, and Parmesan, pour that on top, and bake—I’d had yet another of those little old-world lessons. I mean those reassuring lessons about grabbing a bit of these leftovers, and a few of those standard, always-got-’em ingredients, and whipping up something comforting. I added to that lesson the remnants of a Bordeaux I’d had open for … two weeks? Not sure exactly, but easily that long, under the protection of argon gas. And when I found them both off-the-hook delicious and life-affirming, I knew I’d had not only a meal but an education in the well-lived life.

Put Your Health in a Box

I just drank a O.N.E. Amazon Açaí, and the antioxidants are coursing through my bloodstream. I am alert, probably a bit smarter, and definitely more beautiful now. The health benefits of açaí have been so extensively touted that it seems like all you have to do is smell the berry, and your hair becomes more lustrous. I’m skeptical (but hopeful). What I can take at face value is that it’s good. It’s kind of velvety in the mouth—not thick like a smoothie, but rich. It’s got a cherrylike berry flavor that I love. And even though it comes in little shelf-stable boxes, it tastes fresh.

O.N.E. Amazon Açaí, $31.08 for a case

Nutty Solutions

As I reported here last month, new USDA “safety” rules (effective in September) will require that nearly all raw almonds sold in North America be either steam treated or doused in carcinogenic motorcycle fuel. I first learned the news from the monthly LocalHarvest newsletter; this month’s issue came last night, and it contains some interesting updates on the distasteful almond regulations. Most important, it looks like the nonprofit Cornucopia Institute will offer a ray of hope for cancer-hatin’ fans of the tree nut. As LocalHarvest explains,

The Cornucopia Institute is leading a campaign to convince the USDA to reopen the public comment period on this issue. The previous 45[-day] comment period was not publicized, and resulted in only 18 comments, none of which were submitted by private citizens or consumer advocate organizations.

Hmm, so then the “public” comment period was nothing but a bunch of industry reps sending missives to the USDA. Not surprising, but still totally slimy. CI’s campaign “will be launched late this week or early next,” according to LocalHarvest; check the Cornucopia Action Alerts in a few days to learn how to weigh in.

Meanwhile, at least one small almond farm is taking matters into its own hands, as the blog Local Forage reports. The farm will soon offer customers the opportunity to “rent” trees for the season: That way, it’s not technically a commercial exchange, but just people collecting and eating the raw nuts from “their” trees. In the same way that cow share programs allow raw-milk advocates to legally obtain unpasteurized dairy products, these “tree shares” will let almond eaters keep eating nuts without some pretty unpleasant additives.

What Eames Might Have Eaten

By now we’re all used to clever molecular gastronomy–inspired food, but this is something else again. After years of churning out concepts for Camper shoes, Droog Design, and the Museum of Modern Art, Marti Guixe realized, “I hate objects.” What he really wanted to design was food:

I have considered that I will buy perhaps two chairs in my lifetime, but I buy food three times a day.

Guixe isn’t much interested in cooking. In fact, some of his ideas are downright antieating, such as his Pharma-food project, in which food microparticles are sprayed into the air and breathed in. But his more practical designs bring a whimsical modernism to edibles, resulting in some neat intuitive stuff, such as his cakes that are frosted with a pie chart breaking down what ingredients are inside, cookies mapped into bite-size pieces, and—my favorite—a wine bottle label with tear-off strips to help you remember the name of the wine.

This last idea seems to have been floating in the collective consciousness for a while, actually, and may be catching on, just like good design should.

The End of Ignorance Is Bliss?

The other day I was delighting in a bottle of Racer X, and as I pulled the neck away from my lips, I idly paused to wonder, “Hmm, how many calories are in this thing, anyway?” A quick peek at the label confirmed that there was no information there to harsh my mellow.

That all might change if the Treasury Department has its way. With everyone from New York City residents to Bill Clinton jumping onto the nutrition bandwagon, the Treasury Department is proposing a rule that mandates nutrition labels for all alcoholic beverages. The info would include the number of calories, carbohydrates, fats, and proteins for a standard serving size. Companies could also include the alcohol content.

But don’t start planning your diet yet. As the blog Beer (& More) in Food points out, the change won’t happen for at least three years.

While light beers have long been required to label with calorie and alcohol content, this will be a change for other types of beer and liquor. My favorite element of the new label will be the serving size. I kid, but will providing a serving size on the bottle help people make more informed decisions when drinking?

What Was Your First?

A life of cooking has to start somewhere. Last week food blogger extraordinaire Deb of Smitten Kitchen asked her readers if they remembered their very first cookbook and what they made from it. She got more than 100 replies.

The answers run the gamut, from spiral-bound church recipe collections and family cookbooks to good old Betty Crocker and the Better Homes and Gardens New Junior Cookbook. Some people started off with special children’s cookbooks such as Look! I Can Cook, Yum! I Eat It, and the Klutz cookbook Kids Cooking: A Very Slightly Messy Manual. One precocious young cook claims to have been “cooking out of Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 8th grade” (and yes, you are allowed to be annoyed by such examples of blatant kitchen bragging).

Those first forays into cooking all seem a bit dated now, and slightly (ahem) unsophisticated. There were dishes such as “Daisy Buns: canned biscuits dipped in butter and sugar, arranged on pineapple tidbits and maraschino cherry halves arranged to look like flowers”; Turtle Bread, a white bread dough shaped in the form of a turtle, with raisins for eyes; and “a cake frosted to look like a giant hamburger, complete with real sesame seeds on the top ‘bun.’” Of course there are always those “gifted” children. “At age 10 I made homemade croissants, Chicken Kiev, and apple fritters,” writes one reader.

There were cartoon-inspired cookbooks as well, as readers report on Thumper’s Tuna Noodle Casserole, Oscar the Grouch’s Trash Salad, Lucy’s (of Peanuts) Lemon Squares, and a recipe for “Snuffaluphaloaf.” I seem to recall Minnie Mouse’s cheddar cheese soup.

Do you remember your first?

Young Chef Battles Cancer

One of the nation’s most daring chefs, 33-year-old Grant Achatz of Alinea, was diagnosed last week with a rare and advanced form of mouth cancer. The Chicago-based chef first shared the sad news on the eGullet boards before sending out a statement to the press, and Gulleteers were right there with words of sympathy; food writers and bloggers quickly followed. Achatz, for his part, has been nothing but positive in the face of the setback; as he wrote on eGullet:

I remain, and will remain, actively and optimistically engaged in operations at Alinea to the largest extent possible. Alinea will continue to perform at the level people have come to expect from us—I insist on that.

Unfortunately, Achatz’s ability to oversee his staff by tasting and helping fine-tune recipes may be curtailed even if the cancer is stopped, the Chicago Tribune reports:

If chemotherapy is successful, there remains a possibility that Achatz will lose all sense of taste.

‘It’s Shakespearean,’ said Nick Kokonas, Achatz’s friend and co-owner of Alinea. ‘This is like a painter whose eyes are taken from him, a pianist who has his fingers cut off.’

I hope for Achatz’s sake that his friend’s dramatic pronouncement is premature; but as the Ethicurean notes, treatment for this aggressive cancer could limit his ability not only to taste, but also “to work the long, long hours required of a chef.”

Meanwhile, in another eGullet thread, members discuss whether Achatz’s line of work might actually have increased his chances of developing this kind of cancer. User robyn mentions that she is friends with another young chef who was recently diagnosed with an oral/nasal cancer: “Our friend told us that one of his doctors told him that one of the possible causes of his cancer was working in restaurant kitchens for years and years,” she writes. User gfweb found one study of cooks who’d spent 40 years or more working in kitchens that cooked with fossil fuel or wood and apparently had roughly double the risk of oral cancer. While this is only one study, other users were quick to point out the many health hazards of kitchen work, including ultrahigh stress levels and exposure to dangerous cleaning chemicals.

Whether Achatz’s disease is linked to restaurant working conditions, it’s definitely important to ask whether kitchens could be made more hospitable to their employees; and hopefully one positive outcome here will be an increased attention to the health of cooks and chefs.

As it happens, I booked my first ever reservation at Alinea a few days before Achatz announced his sad news; my boyfriend and I will be dining there next week on our vacation in Chicago. It’s undoubtedly a strange time for the restaurant, but I’m confident our dinner will be a memorable experience no matter what. I hope we’ll be able to make plenty of return visits in the coming years.

Cold Red

Context is everything, and I first tried the Peju Provence California Table Wine after a long day working in my basement, finishing up a home office: nailing in the baseboard, tacking up door casing, that kind of thing. Bent over, knees aching, but also buoyed the way I am when I get to work with my hands. Along the way, I’d taken an hour out to try a recipe I’d been curious about, the mixed-greens tart from Lulu’s Provençal Table. The book is a well-known star in the larger Chez Panisse firmament, but I’m new to it, and I’m smitten by the simple, home-kitchen-esque aesthetic—I’m trying to cook my way through it, and by the time I was opening the evening’s wine I’d converted four farm-fresh eggs, a pint of farm-fresh cream, a stick of butter, some flour, and some chard, spinach, arugula, and kale into something very much like a quiche. Am I proud of this? Yes, I’m proud of this. The thing was divine, and not least because it was a heart attack in a pretty package. I was also proud of it because of how it looked and smelled, and because I knew my two little girls would devour it, greens and all.

But anyway, the wine: It’s a “proprietary red and white blend” of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and French Colombard. It’s darker than most rosés and lighter than most reds—the bottle doesn’t designate its color, and it also offers the helpful tip: “Best Served Chilled.” (They mean this, too: Once the temperature rises, the appeal of the wine falls.) And here’s the surprise: Despite this distinctly unpromising—or, at the very least, suspicion-arousing—provenance, the wine is wonderful. It’s a genuine surprise, and you don’t have to be a superpalate to catch the fresh strawberry taste, not least because the liquid is so close to the color of fresh strawberries that it’s almost the first thing that comes to mind. But also, the strawberries are right there, the moment you take a drink. Popping the cork as a plus-quiche experiment, still wearing my dirty DIY clothes, and with my two little girls screaming and laughing and my tough-audience-for-wine wife brightening with every sip, I came to a firm judgment: This is a great little apéritif, and also a great pairing wine for a light summer meal. And I swear it’s not just because the word Provence was related to both my cookbook and my wine. Honestly. I’m not that pathetic.

Rishi Rich

Niche tea companies seem to be arriving on the scene at an exponential rate. Chowhounds have a lot to say about tea, and Rishi is a favorite. Having partnerships with tea and herb growers around the world has made Rishi Tea a leader in organic cultivation, sustainable harvesting, and artisan processing techniques. These practices are reflected in the flavor and freshness of its teas; and with selections like Peach Blossom and Ancient Emerald Lily, even the non–tea drinkers among us are enticed.

Rishi Peach Blossom Organic White Tea, $18 for 1/4 pound

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