Taco Bell has made a run across the border, notes the Associated Press, which reported this week that the company “is taking on the homeland of its namesake by reopening for the first time in 15 years in Mexico.” As a “pop culture historian” observes, “It’s like bringing ice to the Arctic.” (Although that’s not really the ideal reference these days [registration required]. I’d have gone with the classic idiomatic expression and said, “It’s like bringing burritos to Newcastle.”)
In Mexico, Taco Bell, which opened its first store in Monterrey a couple of weeks ago—the company projects as many as 300 locations across the country—is branding itself as just another American fast-food joint. (In short: Move along, you Mexican gastro-nationalists. Nothing to see here.) As the company wrote in a Mexican newspaper ad, “It is a new fast-food alternative that does not pretend to be Mexican food.”
To get that point across, tacos are no longer tacos—they’re now called tacostadas, a play on tostada. The story includes this wonderful quote from a Mexican office worker: “They’re not tacos. They’re folded tostadas. They’re very ugly.” It seems safe to assume that he would find the company’s understated Mexican marketing slogan—“Taco Bell is something else”—hard to argue with.
Oh, the humanity!
Corporate America, spreading hateful pseudo-culture worldwide!
As a Mexican gastro-nationalist that vehemently hates Taco Bell and all its evil spawns (read Tito’s Tacos in L.A)… I would cut them some slack for adjusting their marketing. They have a right to try & make some money whereever they think they can.
Although I don’t understand what they will do to be successful. Its too gaudy & uncomfortable to attract the Middle Class there (which is currently on a Starbucks kick with 60+ locations in Mexico City in a very short time… and will hopefully progress to a new generation of independent cafes)…. and even at the kiddie level… they are going to have very stiff competition from home grown chains like Danchos… which prepare far superior food that is also more culturally in tune.
At the low end… I don’t think Taco Bell stands a chance because you can get real food from street vendors at the same or lower price (Tacos Al Pastor are about $0.50 US etc.,)… then there are the existing Chain Taquerias & Torterias… that aren’t that much more expensive than TB.
When I lived in Mexico City in 1993-1994 there were several Taco Bells around. I had understood they were there for “the tourists”, but at lunchtime, I’d see fairly long lines at the one on Insurgentes near the Liverpool store.
I resisted the urge to try their product to see if there was any difference. Then again, given that McD’s and Domino’s were just as crappy in the D.F., there probably wasn’t any need.
As to EN’s point about the comparative values of local tacquerias, I seem to recall that there many areas back when I was working down there where there were few choices for lunch – I would’ve loved having a taqueria within walking distance. Unfortunately there was zilch except for a torta cart. So staff would order Domino’s – the ubiquitous ham and pineapple. Wouldn’t surprise me if Taco Bell did OK if they choose their locations well.
PG… I think you were working there during the height of crackdowns on street vendors. Of course… there aren’t many Tacqueros doing business during the Comida… because Mexicans traditionally sit down for a a two hour meal during the middle of the day. It sounds like you were working in the Polanco area… which of course means lunch is either at a nice restaurant, hotel or skyscraper cafe… in any case the food would be much better than Taco Bell.
Domino’s certainly popularized pizza in Mexico during the 1980’s but its taken a big competitive hit…. as early as 1990… the working class sub-urbs all had plenty of independents producing cheaper, better (albeit sometimes strange) pizzas. Nowadays.. in Polanco & Roma-Condesa the Domino’s have lost marketshare to hundreds of Neapolitan style cafes & California style Pizza / Pasta bistros.
Even more impacting has been the advent of the Sushi hole in the walls throughout Polanco that deliver to the corporate offices. In general, Sushi is the new Pizza in D.F.